Archive for the 'shrubs | deciduous' Category

Enkianthus campanulata | Redvein Enkianthus

Enkianthus campanulata | Redvein Enkianthus

Subtle and delicate specimen plant. Not really your show stopper but something more intreaguing for people who already have their basics established. The Mother’s Day flowers are very small white with red striped bells on pendulous racimes. Plant with and treat like Rhododendrons. The leaves are Blue-green and rounded. The bark is smooth dark gray mottled with light gray spots.

Add mulch on a regular basis. No serious pests or disease.
Blooms just after Rhododendrons.
ZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 5 – 7 | full sun to part shade
GROWTH RATE ….. medium
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 20′-30′/7′ to 15′
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Narrow, upright
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 1.5″-3″ rounded with acute tip and little teeth
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate, crowded at end of branches
LEAF COLOR ….. Deciduous | dark green, turning bright yellow in fall
FLOWERS | creamy white to yellow
BARK | smooth, mottled dark and light gray spots
SOIL requires acid, moist, will show stress in drought
Native to Japan

hmmm, no links to plant info. Let me know if anyone finds anything good.

Enkianthus campanulata

What am I?, originally uploaded by urtica.

Fothergilla gardenii | Fothergilla

Fothergilla gardenii | Fothergilla

Native to MD, southeastern US and coastal plain, often found in pine forests and bogs. This 5′ tall rounded shrub has very cool cotton ball fluffy blooms that bring naturalizing interest to any border or foundation, and last for a nice long month. Spreads on its own by succoring if given a little space. Makes a nice companion for other natives, azaleas and rhododendrons. Fothergilla has crinkly bright green leaves reminiscent of witchhazel. Beautiful to lighten understory shadey spots. Plant something dense or dark for contrast behind to make it stand out since its appeal can be too subtle otehrwise.
Move B&B or in container. Does well in acid soil home. Trouble free, no pests.
Has a variety of great fall colors
‘Blue Mist’ more delicate, with cooler blueish or smokey foliage, possibly not as hardy
‘Mt Airy’ From Cincinatti, another blue with abundant blooms

Fothergilla gardenii | above photo: Jennifer Benner

Fothergilla gardenii | above photo: Jennifer Benner

ZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 5 – 8 | full sun to part shade
GROWTH RATE ….. slow
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 5′ to 6′, sometimes not as large
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Loose, mounded in general, with angular zig-zag branching
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 1″-2.5″ obovate, thick and crinkly, leaves look almost exactly like Hamamelis
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate
LEAF COLOR ….. Deciduous | dark green to blueish, turning bright yellow, orange or scarlet in fall
FLOWERS | 1″ white, fragrant honey scented, puffy filament balls, sometimes appearing before leaves
STEM | greenish to light brown, angular
SOIL does well in moist to dry and slightly alkaline
Native MD to FL and west to TX


MO Botanical Gardens / Fothergilla

Dave’s Garden / Fothergilla gardenii

Paghat’s Garden / Fothergilla gardenii

Corylopsis species | Winterhazel


originally uploaded by jonhues

Corylopsis species | Winterhazel

Lightest lemon yellow bell shaped blooms paired with lance shaped leaves that look like Willow leaves. Blooms in early March, tough as nails with lovely fragrance. Can be used as small tree of large shrub, different varieties have different shapes to choose from depending on what you want – vase shaped or wide spreading. Flowers happen before the leaves appear.
Needs to be planted with a bit of shelter to protect blooms from frost damage. Amend soil with peat moss or leaf mold. Plants should be pruned following flowering.
Pricey, but so much nicer than your average Forsythia. It’s good to get B&B 2″ CAL / 6′. I prefer this.
Corylopsis pauciflora | Buttercup Winterhazel vase shaped, more tree-like, nice for woodland setting and modern gardens, flowers later, maybe April
Corylopsis spicata wide spreading up to 14′, bowl shape, half as tall, pink filaments, emerging leaves have purple tint, native to Mnts of Japan
Corylopsis glabrescens most hardy

ZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 5 – 8 | full sun to light shade
GROWTH RATE ….. slow to medium
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 8′-15′/7′ to 15′
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Rounded long arching branches or more upright vase shape
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 2″-4″/1″-3 ovate, wide acuminate, slight teeth, a bit fuzzy, delicate
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate
LEAF COLOR ….. Deciduous | dark green, turning bright yellow to gold in fall, leaves hang on and are killed by frost
FLOWERS | long pendulous racemes of bearing multiple 1″ bell shaped lightest yellow
STEM | long rounded, zig-zag ID with full pith (Forsythia has hollow, chambered and brown)
SOIL does well in moist well drained, acid soil
Native to Japan, introduced 1905

Paghat’s Garden / Corylopsis pauciflora
MO Botanical Garden / Corylopsis glabrescens


Cornus mas | Corneliancherry Dogwood


Cornus mas | Corneliancherry Dogwood

The exfoliating cinnamon bark is beautiful and terrific in winter. An underused understory tree wonderful for natualizing a woodland garden. Tough enough to thrive in urban settings. Good for shade. One of the earliest bloomers of the season (March) with the flowers gathered in clusters. The fresh, yellow star-like flowers are tiny. Like many dogwoods has bright happy fall color.
Care-free. Prune up to begin with and for rejuvination of older specimens. Otherwise is does well with little attention.

Deer are not interested. No Anthracnose or other disease or pests. “mas” translates as male refferring to the natural vigor of this tree. Yellow blooms are similar to Forsythia, but the tree is more dependable. Use as alternative if you have the space. Can be used for deciduous windbreak.

‘Golden Glory’ widely available, heavy bloomer
‘Aurea’ yellow folliage form, very hardy, leaves go green in summer heat, though. Still I’m going to look for and use it.

ZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 3 – 8 | part sun to most shade
GROWTH RATE ….. medium to slow
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 15′-25′/ same width
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Upright, multistemmed, rounded, gets sparse with age (time to prune)
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 2″to 4″/ 1″to 2″ typical dogwood shape
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, opposite
LEAF COLOR ….. Deciduous | deep green, red-plum fall color
FLOWERS | yellow, tiny, clustered
BARK | one of it’s best features, and it has many. The bark looks a lot like Platanus, but with warm hues.
BERRIES | red berries in fall, attractive and edible by birds

SOIL needs moist, acid, peaty soil – add leaf mold, can take clay
Native to Southern and Central Europe, Southwestern Asia

Ohio State / Cornus mas

MO Botanical Garden / Cornus mas ‘Golden Glory’

UCONN / Cornus mas


originally uploaded by intheburg

Magnolia liliiflora ‘Jane’ | Jane & Little Girl Hybrids


Magnolia liliiflora ‘Jane’ | Jane & Little Girl Hybrid Magnolias

The Little Girl Hybrids have ebullient purple “lilies” covering the plant at bloom time in the spring before leaves appear. This display gives the idea of floating flowers. The flowers reccur sporadically over the summer. The hybrids have a warm sweet fragrance.

Magnolias have very shallow root systems. If you transplant, take care not to plant the root colar below the soil or risk retardation or death. Needs protection from strong winds. Best grown in cooler zones. Leaves and blooms get ratty looking in hot summers.

Magnolias are a very old genera of plants dating back 100 million years, as does the beetle that pollinates it. The Little Girl Hybrids are cross between Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ and Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) made originally in the 1950′s at the US Arboretum. Dirr explains the idea was to create a nicely blooming magnolia that bloomed after Star Magnolia, after the frost. Apparently the Little Girls are all confused since their names have been mixed up in the trade. The shrubs often grow larger than is stated on their tags.

April magnolia, originally uploaded by smgbcal07. ‘Jane’ above

‘Jane’ Hardy enough for Michigan, this is the one everyone uses
‘Ann’ 8′to 10′ Dirr’s Fav
Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ may still be found for sale, but unlikely
Magnolia stellata | Star Magnolia white blooms, fragrant, my favorite I think

IMG_6040.JPGZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 6 – 9 | full sun
GROWTH RATE ….. medium
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 10′-15′
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Loose, rounded, upright
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 4″to 7″/ 2″to 5″ obovate
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate
LEAF COLOR ….. Deciduous | dark green on top light green below
FLOWERS | 3″to 4″ wide, purple
BUDS | like other small magnolias are very furry like little rabbit feet.

SOIL needs moist, acid, peaty soil – add leaf mold
Native to China, has been reported it no longer eoccurs in the wild

Peckerwood Garden from Texas / Magnolia Gallery
Ok, the name is cracking me up plus it’s in TX. The pics are great, though, so I’m not complaining

Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ | Lily Magnolia

Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ | Lily Magnolia

Has fantastic dark red color, but seldom seen in trade these days. The species is seldom offered in commerce because its leaves are often infected with mildew. As wth the example above, Dirr mentions he’s seen very nice compact specimens in Duth and English Gardens. Choose Magnolia x soulangiana (Saucer Magnolia) or Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) instead.  Native to China, has been reported it no longer occurs in the wild.

Cornus alba | Red Twig Dogwood


Cornus alba | Red Twig, Orange Twig or Yellow Twig Dogwood
Winter interest is this plant’s middle name. The stems can be red, orange or yellow and make a striking statement when planted in a mass of 5 to 10 plants, creating a bright stroke of color in the grayness of winter. They look lovely on neighborhood street corners. Summertime leaves quite similar to Cornus florida, familiar Flowering Dogwood trees of southern naustalgia. White berries are lovely, too. Can be used on banks for erosion control. All dogwoods seem to brighten my day. I’m devoted.

Dogwood family can get several diseases, cancer, leaf spot, and twif blight among them, but they have few pests and are generally healthy. Pruning will promote canopy air circulation, compactness, and healthy coloring of stems and variegated leaf color. In the first couple years prune only the largest stems untill the plant is established. After that, prune most stems back to 18″ tall every 3 years in Jan or Feb to rejuvinate. Deer will nibble and thus may eliminate the need for pruning.

Variegated dogwood, originally uploaded by weretable.

aka: Red Stem Dogwood. Virtually impossible to tell cultivars apart. Closely related to Cornus sericea. Fibrous rooted. Cornus from Latin “Cornu” horn or antler. The common name, dogwood, comes from England. Years ago, people there used the bark of the bloodtwig dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) to bathe mangy dogs. On this continent, flowering dogwood has been used by Native Americans to make scarlet dyes and tinctures. Although the fruits are poisonous to humans, in the late 1700s, colonists made a tea from dogwood bark to reduce fevers and soothe colds. The wood of the dogwood tree is used today to make small tools and ornaments. It has been under cultivation in North America since the 1730s. Today, flowering dogwoods are popular landscaping trees. They are slow growing (often only a few centimeters per year in dense shade), resilient, and beautiful.

‘Bloodgood’ supposedly the showiest red stem
‘Midwinter Fire’ maybe a bit bigger and slightly longer lasting
‘Ivory Halo’ peachy orange, sensational color, finer texture, more compact 5′ to 6′, variegated leaves
Cornus sericea | Redosia Dogwood 10′, similar characteristics to C. alba
ZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 3 – 7 | sun to part shade
GROWTH RATE ….. fast
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 8′ to 10′ / 5′ to 10′
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Open, suckering, erect branches
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. ovate, round at base, pointy at tip, 2″ to 4″ long, half as wide
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate
LEAF COLOR ….. dark green, some variegated
FLOWERS | yellow white and sporadic, 1.5″
BERRIES | cool blueish white droopes
STEM | color changes from bright reds and yellows in winter to bold green in summer, best color is on younger stems
SOIL moist, well drained
Native Siberia, Manchuria, Korea
Ohio State University / Cornus alba

Earl J.S. Rook / Cornus alba
I’ve never seen this site before but looks pretty interesting

MO Botanical Garden / Cornus alba Ivory Halo


Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ | Harry Lauder’s Walkingstick

Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ | Harry Lauder’s Walkingstick

Completely bizzare and fantastical, a plant with wonderful winter interest. Corkscrew twising branches are other-worldy. The twisted leaves are heart-shaped and toothed and quirky catkins. Is great as specimen, especially in winter with an evergreen backdrop.
Needs a bit of thinning to maintains respectable appearance. Can be pruned at any time. When watersprouts emerge without corkscrew form, try to suppress.
Can be on the costly side, but young plants can be pretty interesting. Related to European Filbert
‘Pendula’ Dir describes it as an “inverted soup bowl” 8′/16′
IMG_5057.JPGZONES HARDINESS | SUN OR SHADE ….. 4 – 9 | full sun to light shade
GROWTH RATE ….. medium to fast
HEIGHT / WIDTH ….. 8′/15′
PLANT SHAPE & BRANCHING ….. Dense, mounding and rounded, crazy branches
LEAF FORM & SHAPE ….. 2″ to 4″ irregularly and softly heart shapped
LEAF ARRANGEMENT ….. simple, alternate
LEAF COLOR ….. dark green, fuzzy, muddy yellow in fall
FLOWERS | catkins are yellowish brown can be showy opens in Feb, has nicely colored red buds
STEM | corkscrew and striking

Hazel DSCF8045
, originally uploaded by hedgerowmobile.

SOIL loamy, pH adaptable
Native to England, Europe and Northern Africa


Paghat’s Garden / Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

Dave’s Garden / Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

MO Botanical Garden / Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ 

Winterizing Container Grown Trees and Shrubs

Winterizing Container Grown Trees and Shrubs

THIS ARTICLE originally appeared in the Horticulture & Home Pest News, Sept 15, 1995 issue, p. 136.
Prepared by Sherry Rindels, Department of Horticulture, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa.

Many homes have patios and decks complete with large pots containing shrubs or trees. These containers provide a feeling of permanence and beauty to the area. Unfortunately for those of us in Iowa, containerized plants often experience severe winter injury and often death if unprotected. In containers, the roots of the plants are exposed to below-freezing temperatures on all sides. As temperatures fluctuate, the soil thaws and refreezes causing the plant to heave out of the soil. This tears the roots and can expose the roots to drying winds. Branches can be broken directly by strong winds or by the container tipping over. Sudden temperature changes can also damage the container itself causing it to crack.

Small plants can easily be moved into a cool garage or basement. Temperatures should be in the upper 30′s or lower 40′s. Protecting large plants is a bigger challenge but it can be done. Covering the plant and the container thoroughly can help protect the plant. However, if the plant is too tender for our climate or if the winter is unusually harsh, these measures may not be adequate.

To aid in the success of the plant, select plants hardy for our area and make every effort to be sure the plant is going into the winter in a healthy state. Continue watering the plant through the fall. Do not fertilize after mid-summer. Woody plants should be encouraged to gradually cease growth and harden off in preparation for winter. After the first hard frost and the plant has lost most of its leaves, begin the process of winter protection. Gently tie together the branches so they won’t be damaged when you pack insulating material around them. Water the tree thoroughly and mulch the top of the soil with several inches of straw or leaves. Make a cylinder around the outside of the tub with chicken wire or other type of garden fencing. Make the cage tall enough to enclose the entire plant. Fasten the wire fencing to a stake with wire or staples to add support. Fill the cage with straw or leaves working carefully so no branches are broken in the process. Wrap the outside of the cage with burlap or shade cloth and secure it with twine. This prevents the stuffing material from blowing away. As a last step, cover the cage with plastic or roofing paper and tuck in the edges. Tie over the top to prevent it from blowing off. When spring arrives, unwrap the tree gradually. Remove the plastic or roofing paper cover first. Gently pull out the leaves or straw from around the branches and untie them. The stuffing can be used as a garden mulch around perennial flowers or in the vegetable garden. Leave the fencing and the outside wrap in place. Water if the soil is dry.

Once spring has truly arrived, remove the burlap or shade cloth wrap and the cage. Prune broken or damaged branches and remove any other unnecessary growth. Select a cloudy day to remove coverings so the tree can acclimate gradually. Store the fencing and burlap away for next year. Containerized trees and shrubs add a great deal to our landscapes. With proper winter protection, the same plant can provide beauty for many years.

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